Although Holy Week in Ayacucho in Peru stands out as one of the most important religious festivities for Catholicism, Holy Week in Cusco is also among the most traditional and oldest in the country.
According to a tradition, after the earthquake of 1650 in Cusco, the Lord of the Tremors, known as the “Taytacha”, sworn patron saint of the city, was taken in procession through the Plaza de Armas, managing to calm the seismic movements that had left Cusco in ruins. Since then, he has been known as “El Señor de los Temblores” (The Lord of the Earthquakes).
One of the most moving religious celebrations is the Easter Monday procession in Cusco, which has always attracted numerous faithful to venerate this beloved religious image, perhaps the most revered in the city.
My memories go back to my childhood, around the age of six, when my mother took me for the first time to the procession of the Lord. Equipped with a small wooden folding chair, we would go early to secure the best places to witness the Taytacha and receive his blessing. For a small child, the wait was torturous, especially with the icy wind hitting our faces, but the faith instilled by my mother made it worth the effort to witness such an awe-inspiring moment.
The Plaza de Armas of Cusco is rarely completely full, but on this date, it is overflowing with faithful Catholics waiting for the blessing of the Taytacha of the tremors. The processional route of the Taytacha passes through several stations and temples before arriving at the Plaza de Armas, where it stops in front of the door of the Cathedral to offer its blessing to the faithful.
More than three decades have passed since my mother first took me to the procession. About four years ago, I witnessed it again in Cusco after many years. Although I no longer profess the Catholic faith, due to my different understanding of God and religions, I agreed to accompany my current wife, who wished to ask God’s blessing for our life together.
On a cold Holy Monday night in Cusco, I was no longer the child accompanying his mother, but a non-believing systems engineer with an interest in photography, attending to support his partner. He was carrying the same old wooden folding chair my mother had bought for me as a child, this time so my girlfriend wouldn’t get tired while we waited
for the Taytacha. After hours of waiting, it was finally announced that the Lord was in the temple of La Merced and was heading towards the Plaza de Armas.
The sound of the Maria Angola, a bell with history, announced the arrival of the Señor de los Temblores. The bell, damaged by an earthquake, tolled slowly, creating a hoarse and loud sound that echoed through the city, marking the culminating moment of the blessing.
The journey of the Taytacha through the city, accompanied by the enthusiastic participation of the faithful, is an incredible and moving spectacle that leaves a deep impression in the hearts of those who witness it, regardless of their religious beliefs. It is a tradition rooted in the history and soul of Cusco, which endures through the centuries as an essential part of Holy Week in this city full of traditions and customs.
